Submitted by Greene County 4-H Foundation
Some might argue that the Clover Cafe at the Greene County Fair is the county’s longest running restaurant. Beginning in the early 1960s and known for its infamous “4-H beef burgers,” the volunteer-managed food stand is also one of the oldest funding sources for 4-Hers in Greene County.
The Cafe, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner for five-days during the county fair, recently received much needed upgrades with the help of several donors. New stainless steel food prep tables, a new commercial refrigerator, and a credit card system modernize the fundraising kitchen.
Those contemporary touches are a far cry from the original food stand opened 60 years ago.
Humble beginning for a good cause
“My mother, Mildred (Milly) and Maxine Ebersole served meals out of an old wooden structure with open air sides,” said Steve Karber. “Then, the money raised at the 4-H food stand paid for high schoolers in 4-H to take a bus trip to Washington D.C. every summer,” he said.
Today, the Clover Cafe is still the number one fundraiser for Greene County 4-H programs through the Greene County 4-H Foundation. Today, the group funds scholarships for seniors, activities for Clover Kids, and supports families who might not otherwise have the means to get involved in 4-H.
“Not only does the Clover Cafe serve an enormous purpose each day of the fair by serving our 4-Hers and their families, but it supports our Greene County youth 365 days per year as a major funding source,” said Lori Mannel, Greene County Extension director. “We are so grateful to the families, community members and 4-Hers who volunteer each day at the Clover Cafe to make it a success.”
Beef Burger Secret?
Today, those volunteers serve ice cream, sell loads of soda and bottled water, dish out nachos and of course, make beef burgers. “The recipe has really never changed since the 1960s,” said Julie Karber. “It’s not really a secret. It has been shared widely!”
But after 60 years, many things have changed. The number of kids participating at the fair is lower and the food stand itself is much more modern.
“When Steve’s mother first ran the food stand, the pies sat out all day and there were no food safety rules like we have today,” added Julie reminiscing on how far the Clover Cafe has come in its 60 years at the fair.
Those pies were made by women like Betty Larson, whose children Linda, Laine, Lindsey and Loel all participated in 4-H activities at the fair.
Family Tradition
“Mom worked in the food stand with us (girls) and made pies to sell in the food stand,” said Laine Custer whose family spent from sun-up to sun down at the fairgrounds most days. “In the 1960s, Dad (Duane) helped us with our cattle and was also on the fair board for several years.”
In those days, more than 300 exhibitors and their family’s swarmed the fairgrounds for a week. And, they were usually hungry.
Every day of the fair, it’s estimated that Mildred Karber’s team prepared five roasters of meat for iconic beef burgers. In one week, she’d sell almost 1,000 beef burgers. She did that for 17 years. Then, she handed off her burger serving spoon to her daughter-in-law.
Julie Karber knew that from the first time she helped in the food stand, she was being groomed to manage it, she laughs. “I always say Clover Cafe was part of my inheritance. I didn’t think not to do it.”
The Next Generation
Julie’s first year managing the Cafe in 1986 saw the construction of the existing facility on the grounds. It was just after her last in 1998 that the Fair Board installed air conditioning in the kitchen.
But, Julie never managed the Clover Cafe alone. She talked forever-friend Cheryl Nailor into helping her for years. Their combined six children, who were all active 4-Hers, worked alongside other club and community volunteers to prepare food and serve each day.
“We always joke that our youngest son Gabe never got a real birthday since it always fell during the fair,” said Julie. “We were always working in the Clover Cafe.”
As with tradition, Gabe recently celebrated a birthday at Greene County Fair alongside his own Greene County 4-H-exhibiting-children, Isaac and Estella, who this summer will be the fourth generation to serve beef burgers to their friends as Clover Cafe volunteers.
Come Enjoy a Beef Burger
In doing the math, one could estimate tens of thousands of beef burgers have been made with love and devoured by hot, tired and happy 4-Hers at the Greene County Fair in the past 60 years.
Though, the real count really doesn’t matter, the Karbers say. “The Clover Cafe is raising money for a great cause and whether you have a 4-Her at the fair or not, you just have to go out and enjoy a beef burger during the Greene County Fair.”
The Clover Cafe opens Tuesday, July 12, from 5 to 9 pm and daily Wednesday through Sunday for the entirety of the Greene County Fair. Cash or credit cards are accepted.
